This guest post is by Celeste Sargent as part of the 1817 Regency Ball Blog Series
“What should I do with your … spirited Sketches …?” Jane Austen wrote her nephew Edward “How could I possibly join them on to the little bit (two Inches wide) of Ivory on which I work with so fine a Brush …?“[1]
Jane Austen used the metaphor of her small, ivory notebook to modestly describe her ordinary characters and the narrow scope of her stories, but it is also an apt metaphor for the time and place in which she lived and in which her stories take place: Regency England.
The ordinary ivory notebook (as opposed to expensive paper) is also a good metaphor for the themes on which she wrote and the ideas that influenced the Regency Period (and Regency Fashion). Within their seemingly small, ordinariness they contain an enduring quality and value.
The Regency Period
The Regency Period in England was very short. Technically it spans from 1811-1820 when King George III was deemed unfit to rule and his son ruled as his proxy until the King’s death. More generally it spans from 1790 to 1820s [3]. Though born into the Georgian Era in 1775, Jane Austen’s adult life was Regency. Her first book (Sense and Sensibility) was published in 1811 and she died in 1817[4].
Regency Fashion is notable for it’s ordinariness for both men and women. It was a changing social time in Europe (and the world), with revolution in the air (notably the French Revolution in 1789). The foundations of society and social classes were shifting. Disgusted with the excess as much as the oppression of the Regents and ruling classes, many people were attracted to simplicity and equality, which affected their fashion choices.
“Indeed it [the Regency Era] was a time of revolution in every sphere – political as well as domestic. Social reform was in its infancy, but would soon become the catch-phrase of the Victorians. On other fronts, a religious revival had begun to kick with the rise of the middle classes, a stricter morality, or at least the appearance of it. And fashion changed with the times, from the simplest of white muslin gowns of the Directoire to the elaborate embroidered, flounced and trimmed toilettes that were the forerunners of the even more ornate Victorian era. It is against this backdrop of war and technical advancement, over consumption and poverty, we are to see those times; the true beginning of our modern times.” [5]
Ladies’s Regency Fashion
Derived from an admiration of the Greeks, perhaps for their ideas of democracy, simple and comfortable shifts, gathered below the bust became the fashion for women[6]. The empire waist was a welcome respite for the tortured waistline. For this period the corset gave way to a shorter, lighter and more comfortable undergarment almost comparable to a modern bra which was not seen again until the 1920s.[7] En even more modern change was that,
“people began using clothing more as a form of individual expression of the true-self than as a pure indication of social status“[6]
Lady Catherine de Bourgh is clearly depicted as a matriarch from another era when Mr. Collins says
“Lady Catherine will not think the worse of you for being simply dressed. She likes to have the distinction of rank preserved.” [8]
A Regency Era Lady in the Ballroom
- Gown:
- Ankle-length
- Empire waist (under the bust)
- Any neckline
- Any sleeves (cap, short, long)
- Chemise (optional white blouse worn under a dress to cover the shoulders and/or bust)
- Spencer (optional VERY short, fitted jacket)
- Slippers (flat dancing shoes)
- Shawl (large square of coloured fabric like a pashmina, often Indian silk)
- Long white gloves
- Fan
- Reticule (fabric draw-string purse)
- Hair: Grecian (curled, up and simple or ornamented with ribbons, combs, beads, feathers etc)
For Easy Women’s Regency Gown tips and tricks check out:
- “How to Fake Regency: A Guide to the Silhouette” by Experiments in Elegance
- “Easy P’easy Regency: from bed to ball gown in 30 minutes or less“, by Celeste Sargent
- “How to Get a Proper Regency Look From a Thrift Store“, by Regency Exhibition Ball
- “Women’s Hairstyles“, by Jessamyn’s Regency Costume Companion
Gentlemen’s Regency Fashion
Men’s fashion was also influenced by ideals of simplicity and was notable for beginning the transition to the modern suit[9]. Gentlemen who had previously worn breeches and pantaloons (knee/calf length with socks) or tight leggings began to wear slightly looser fitting, full length trousers which had been the fashion of the lower classes [10]. Soon the trouser would be included as a part of evening wear with the tailcoat (the tuxedo)[11].
The cravat (precursor of the tie) was also introduced in this era and, like any new fashion trend, was promptly taken to extremes. Contrasted with the stated desire for simplicity this was the era when the term “Dandyism” was coined for men. “Beau Brummel”, a contemporary of Jane epitomized men’s Regency fashion in both respects. I apologize for simply quoting wikipedia directly here.
“George Bryan “Beau” Brummell (7 June 1778 – 30 March 1840) was an iconic figure in Regency England, the arbiter of men’s fashion, and a friend of the Prince Regent, the future King George IV. He established the mode of dress for men that rejected overly ornate fashions for one of understated, but perfectly fitted and tailored bespoke garments. This look was based on dark coats, full-length trousers rather than knee breeches and stockings, and above all immaculate shirt linen and an elaborately knotted cravat.
Beau Brummell is credited with introducing, and establishing as fashion, the modern men’s suit, worn with a necktie. He claimed he took five hours a day to dress, and recommended that boots be polished with champagne. His style of dress is often referred to as dandyism.” [12]
A Regency Era Gentleman in the Ballroom
- Trousers (full length, slim-leg, high waisted dress pants)
- Collared dress shirt (White)
- Cravat (white linen scarf tied around a popped collar)
- Waistcoat (vest) – double or single breasted
- Tailcoat – double or single breasted
- Dress shoes
- Gloves (white)
- Top Hat
- Hair: Long or high and tousled on the top and shorter at the sides with side-burns (think Greek)
For Easy Men’s Regency tips and tricks check out:
- “Faking Regency Fashion For Men” by Experiments in Elegance
- “My Mr. Knightly: Tying a cravat” by Tea in a Teacup
- “Easy P’easy Regency: from bed to ball gown in 30 minutes or less“, by Celeste Sargent
- “Men’s Hairstyles” by Jessamyn’s Regency Costume Companion
References
1. Francis Beer. “The Three Sisters”: “A Little Bits of Ivory”,
2. James Follet, “Jane Austen’s Laptop Word Processor”, 1996
3. Wikipekia. “Regency Era”
4. The Republic of Pemberly. “Jane Austen Information Page”
5. Regency England, a Brief Introduction
6. Wikipedia. “1795-1820 in Western Fashion”
7. The Republic of Pemberly. “Notes and Illustrations on Regency Clothing Styles”
8. Austen, Jane. “Pride and Prejudice.” 1813
9.Wikipedia “History of Suits”
10. Koster, Kirsten. “A Primer on Regency Era Men’s Fashion”
11. Jane Austen’s World. “Regency Fashion: Men’s Breeches, Pantaloons and Trousers”
12. Wikipekia. “Beau Brummell“
I have a few of these things in my own collection. They are called aide memoires.